Awesome Indian Toilets

Men pee everywhere in India, and I mean everywhere. They will squat down on a busy street, whip out the wanger, and deftly piss into a corner or little culvert of streaming waste. Others simply lean against a wall, with one hand of course, and let it flow. Periodically there are “bathrooms” that are no more than a three-sided stand. Pee against the wall and it flows away… about three feet where it puddles and mixes with cow shit.

Outside Toilet For Men & Women

Such is India. That is why this is my favorite, if most boring toilet. It simply resides outside in the wide open, but it’s an actual toilet at least. Not only that, both men and women can use it!

Outside toilet, for both men and women
Outside toilet, for both men and women

Flush Squat Toilet

Squat toilets typically don’t flush, you fill a bucket with water and dump it in the hole. In fact, I’d never seen a flush squat toilet until I came to India—talk about advanced toilet engineering! Thomas Friedman was clearly thinking of this ingenuity when referring to India in his book The World is Flat.

Flush squat toilet
Flush squat toilet

Combo Squat/Western Toilet

This toilet, in my hotel, is the best. It’s a combo Western/still-stand-on-it-as-if-it’s-a-squat-toliet. What I appreciate most about this toilet is that it easily accommodates large asses.

Combo squat/Western toilet
Combo squat/Western toilet

Have you used a squat toilet? How did that work for ya? I usually slip or fall backwards—not good! Share your squatting experiences in the comments section below.

Weekly Photo: Taj Mahal

I took over 150 photos of the Taj Mahal and many of them are pretty good, if I do say so myself. I have the Taj Mahal from every angle, from inside and out, from the mosque, and from the other buildings surrounding it. Nevertheless, the best photo remains the one taken when you enter through the gates (picture-worthy themselves) and first set eyes on Taj Mahal.

A little history…

The Taj Mahal is not a mosque, though there is one next to it. The Taj Mahal is a mausoleum dedicated to the third wife of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. Her name was Mumtaz Mahal and taj refers to a crown. The British didn’t believe the Taj Mahal was very impressive and actually let it fall into disrepair and even to be defaced by British soldiers.

Disappointingly, the Taj Mahal is not lit at night. This is to protect the delicate white marble. Cars are also not allowed within 500 meters of the Taj Mahal, again to protect it from the corrosive effects of the pollution. Agra is polluted, nonetheless, and I doubt this ban has had much of an effect on protecting the Taj Mahal.

Where’s the India I Was Warned About?

When I told people I was going to India, I received a lot of advice (which I actively solicited). I was also warned to prepare myself for India. India is filthy, India is a mess, and India is difficult to navigate. Exactly the opposite has occurred on my travels through India.

I’ve been in India for over two weeks and haven’t experienced any significant issues, certainly nothing that would make me call this the most difficult traveling I’ve done. I haven’t felt threatened, I haven’t been cheated, I haven’t even had touts hassle me. Perhaps my biggest disgust when traveling is dealing with taxi/tuk tuk/rickshaw drivers that always try to screw you—even that hasn’t happened here. There are negatives and some things that just make absolutely no sense at all, but the positives far out way all that.

Yes, India is quite filthy. The air is polluted and there is dust everywhere. People just toss garbage wherever they happen to be. Roadsides, vacant lots—any space, actually—is just covered with garbage. There are piles of trash all over the place. People also spit a great deal, mostly from chewing on betel nuts.

Cow shit is a constant worry. Mostly because there are cows everywhere you go. A rather odd phenomenon to have cows wandering around, eating trash, lying in the trash, shitting everywhere, and then have people revere them and pet them as they walk by. I suppose it’s no more odd than believing that a bearded sky-fairy created the earth in seven days. Avoiding stepping in cow shit has been the most difficult navigating I’ve had to do in India.

Honking is incessant. Not a couple beeps like in SE Asia. No, these are long hold-your-hand-on-the-horn-for-at-least-five-minutes honks. I am not exaggerating. It’s insane and no one even pays it any attention. The constant, long honking would be amusing in its absurdity if it weren’t so damn annoying.

Despite these relatively minor annoyances, India is a wonderful place. No one seems out to cheat you. In fact, many people are effusively nice. They help you get around, even walking you to where you want to go, with no expectation of money or stopping at their shop. Sometimes they just want to chat with you for a few minutes before they go on their way with a smile.

A tout might ask you to look at their shop as you’re walking by. “Just look,” is all they ask. If you decline, they smile and say, “Maybe later.” That’s it. There is no pressure whatsoever. Rickshaw drivers start high, but will drop down fast with only one or two back and forth negotiations (regular taxis just use their meters). If you know the price you should pay, they often just agree to it. I’ve never experienced such a thing before.

Of course, the food is absolutely amazing. I haven’t had one bad dish. Everything has been wonderfully prepared and is always fresher than fresh. I haven’t gotten sick and I’ve even eaten from street vendors. If anything, the biggest issue has been eating too much!

I’ve only been in India for two weeks and only in the North (I just arrived in Bombay as I write this), I expect that my views will not change. I’m not sure why people think India is so difficult or challenging to travel. I’ve found India relatively easy to travel with only a few minor annoyances that are hardly unique to India. I’m looking forward to several more weeks of great food and great people, and of course the beaches of Goa.

Have you been to India? What was your experience? Are you thinking of visiting? Share your thoughts in the comments section below.

Weekly Photo: Tomb of Humayun, New Delhi

On a day tour through New Delhi, I was surprised to be able to actually get this photo to turn out. There was a constant haze that engulfed everything, making it difficult to get any photos to turn out. Fortunately, the hazed cleared and so did the tourists and I was able to take this photo of the Tomb of Humayun.

The Charming Cities of Iloilo

The Philippines is filled with a bevy of beaches that are wonderful and world-famous (think Boracay), but the real charm is in the small towns that no one visits, not even Filipinos touring in their own country. My friend and I decided to visit Iloilo because the Guimaras was nothing like it was marketed to be and Iloilo is a the third largest city in the Philippines, so it’s easy to fly back to Manila from. I didn’t really expect much, but ended up having a wonderful time.

Iloilo is a sizable city and was one of the last holdouts of the Spanish, though surprisingly it is a little slim on the cultural offerings. There are colonial mansions, but they are far from the city center and difficult to get. There are several churches that are great to see, though. One of them, the St. Anne Parish Church of Molo, is called the “feminist” church because of the female saints depicted in the church, making it a very unique church indeed. The plaza in front of the church is worth a visit in its own right, if own for a nice little relaxing space to get away from the chaos of Iloilo City proper.

St Anne Parish, Iloilo, Philippines
St Anne Parish, Iloilo, Philippines

Guimbal, about 30 minutes by jeepney from Iloilo, is a much smaller town that very few people visit. It receives a few more tourists (mostly Filipinos) than other cities in the area, but this is still a small amount and most are from Iloilo. There is also a wonderful church and plaza there as well. The city is also a bit more walkable with a nice beach to walk along. Guimbal is charming with nice people and really relaxing.

Church of San Nicolas of Tolentino, Guimbal, Philippines
Church of San Nicolas of Tolentino, Guimbal, Philippines

The real winner for me, though, was Miagao. I absolutely loved this city. There are practically no tourists there at all, Filipino or otherwise. I was the only white person in the entire town… and people noticed. Of course, they were exceptionally friendly and always smiling. Children would wave at me and yell “Hello” and “Hi” as I walked through the city streets.

Miagao Church
Miagao Church

The town is really relaxed with very little going on. It’s tiny (though, interestingly, it is the largest municipality in the Philippines) and is primarily a fishing village from what I could tell (I even saw a giant Blue Marlin get caught right off the beach!). The main event was Sunday mass at the World Heritage listed Miagao Church. After mass, I walked down to the beach to walk amount the colorful boats and watch the sunset.

Miagao Church (interesting front facade)
Miagao Church (interesting front facade)

The sunset at Miagao was wonderful. The beaches fill with many more people than I saw during the day, and the setting sun light up the beach beautifully. The beach isn’t white, but it’s still very nice to walk along and enjoy. I really believe Miagao could be a nice little resort area if it were ever “discovered.” In fact, I could easily see myself living here.

Miagao sunset
Miagao sunset
Miagao sunset
Miagao sunset

Sugar Beach: Not the “Next Boracay”—Better

Nearly every nice beach in the Philippines is billed as the “next Boracay” and Sugar Beach was no exception. Fortunately, it was nothing like Boracay, except perhaps beautiful. Sugar Beach was isolated, calm and relaxing. Unlike Boracay, it isn’t really “discovered” yet, so it’s far more enjoyable and affordable. Getting to Sugar Beach is no easy feat, though.

My friend and I took a ferry from Cebu to Dumaguete, on Negros Oriental, and then a 7 hour bus ride from Dumaguete to Hinoba-an to Negros Occidental (the other side of Negros Island). From there, we took a tricycle to Sipalay. I had to negotiate hard with the tricycle driver (and ended up being a bit more harsh than intended) but arranged for him to take us to Sipalay for 350P. The distance was quite far, taking close to an hour, and we did it at night.

We stayed in Sipalay for the night and enjoyed the cute little town and its empty beach. I also decided that I wanted to get a beer that night. We stopped by the local store to up a Red Horse and I got the smiling horse! The smiling horse is very rare since they don’t make them anymore. If you get one, it means the beer is very strong. I drink a fair bit, but I couldn’t finish the bottle and was plenty drunk half way through. Alas, it was the only time in the Philippines I got the smiling horse.

Read Horse beer
Read Horse beer (smiling horse on the left)

The next day and me hung over, we caught another tricycle to Sugar Beach for 100P. To get to Sugar Beach from Sipalay, you either take a boat (which is not cheap) or take a tricycle over a rather rough and, at times, dirt road for about 45 minutes. Once you reach the end of the road, you actually take a small boat across the river. There are no bridges and the water is just deep enough that you can’t really cross it.

Crossing the river at Sugar Beach
Crossing the river at Sugar Beach

Sugar Beach is isolated! That’s one of its best features, though.

There were very few people around and the beach was all but deserted most of the time. I felt like it was a private resort even though there were actually several small resorts along the beach. We stayed a one that was pretty nice the first night, but I really enjoyed the one we stayed at the remaining nights. It was actually a traditional Filipino nipa hut. My friend said it was what a typical family in the Philippines would live in, and I enjoyed staying in a hut near beach.

Sugar Beach near Sipalay, Philippines
Sugar Beach near Sipalay, Philippines

While the beach itself won’t win any awards, the sand was nice and had a nice slope down to the water. No, it wasn’t white (more brownish), but the entire beach was lined with coconut palms (the national tree of the Philippines) and there were lounge chairs and umbrellas, making it easy to relax and listen to the waves. The water was really shallow for quite a distance out from the beach, and clean.

One of the best things about Sugar Beach is that it’s Western facing, guaranteeing a beautiful sunset. Every night we walked along the beach enjoying the sunset and snapping a million pictures. The sunset would start out slightly yellow, work its way to a deep orange, and eventually a stunning purple. It was quite breathtaking.

Relaxing on Sugar Beach
Relaxing on Sugar Beach
Sugar Beach sunset
Sugar Beach sunset
Sugar Beach sunset
Sugar Beach sunset

Palawan: The Last Frontier of the Philippines

Palawan is marketed by the Filipino tourism board as the “Last Frontier” of the Philippines. Situated out in the Sulu Sea and at least an hour flight from Luzon, the Visayas or Mindanao, it really does seem like the last frontier of the Philippines.

Palawan seemed very different from the rest of the Philippines. Puerto Princesa City, the capital city of Palawan and the Princess of the Philippines, is a bustling, progressive city.. that wears her crown proudly. The mayor is of German decent, surprisingly, and as such, runs the city with crazy German efficiency. PPC was by far an away the cleanest city I visited in the Philippines. I am not exaggerating when I tell you there was not one single cigarette butt on the side of the road, let alone trash.

Honda Bay, Palawan, Philippines
Honda Bay, Palawan, Philippines

The people are very welcoming and the staff at my hostel, JLC, were extremely nice. I had several conversations with them and they were just absolutely wonderful. JLC is family owned and run with only four rooms, and they make you feel like you are part of the family. The entire city is that way. Everyone was so nice and pleasant.

The real beauty of Palawan is the nature. I was only there for four days. Not nearly enough time to explore all that Palawan has to offer. I was unable to dive Tubbataha Reef, a premier dive site in the world. Nor was I able to visit El Nido, Palawan’s answer to Boracay. I did get to see Honda Bay and the Underground River.

Barangay, Honda Bay, Palawan, Philippines
Barangay, Honda Bay, Palawan, Philippines

Honda Bay apparently had its named changed ever so slightly since the occupying Japanese were not able to pronounce the original Filipino name. Regardless, the islands of Honda Bay are stunningly beautiful with white sand beaches, coconut palms and barangay (boats) sailing between them all.

I took a day trip around the islands for 1,100 pesos (about $25) that included lunch. I was with a nice Filipino family from San Fransisco, California. The grandmother told some amazing stories about the Philippines from the time of the war, her daughters chatted about their childhoods in the Philippines, and the children (around my age and a bit younger) talked about their experiences visiting the Philippines for the first time. The conversations and stories, and of course the beautiful islands, made for a wonderful day.

Honda Bay, Palawan, Philippines
Honda Bay, Palawan, Philippines

One of the premium attractions, and a World Heritage site, is the Underground River. The Underground River is the longest navigable underground river in the world (though, there may be a longer one in Loas that was recently discovered). Little paddle boats take you through the river and explain the formations. My little boat’s captain had a colorful sense of humor in both English and Filipino that had us laughing most of the ride. The day tour was 1,500 pesos (about $35) and included lunch with the option to try to tamilok wood worms. I couldn’t bring myself to do it, but apparently they taste like oysters.

Entering the Underground River, Palawan
Entering the Underground River, Palawan

Even though I was only in Palawan for four days, it was perhaps one of my favorite places in the Philippines. The wonderful people and beautiful natural scenery make Palawan and PPC a must visit destination in the Philippines.