Wandering Foward

I was really interested in a safari at Yala National Park, but I had to get there from Kandy. For some reason I do not understand, public transportation from Kandy to Tissamaharama (where Yala is) is very limited and slow. You can take buses, but several transfers are required and it will be slow going. Given I had limited time, I opted for a car and driver. The cost was 15,500Rs (about $120) to go to Tissamaharama. I paid another 10,500Rs (about $80) to go to Galle, which was a bit of a ripoff. I noticed that gas was 4,000Rs, which included the entire trip and return to Kandy. The driver is only paid 2,000Rs a day, plus 250Rs for meals. Nevertheless, I enjoyed myself and my driver made sure that I saw the important sights along the way. If I wanted to stop, we stopped and no questions asked. My driver was a really nice guy, drive really well, and made sure that I was happy the entire time.

Sri Lanka roads leave a bit to be desired (with the exception of the airport expressway—that’s a nice road), so it takes some time to get from point A to point B. The road from Kandy to Tissamaharama is windy and goes through the hills. The flip side is that it is stunningly beautiful. Tea plantations cover the hillsides with verdant green bushes with waterfall aplenty. Tours of the tea plantations are free and take about 20 minutes, so it is worth going on one and learning about how tea is made.

Many people spend a lot of time up in the hills visiting Nuwara Elija, hiking to Adam’s Peak and hanging out in the the tiny city of Ella. The Sri Lankans find it rather amusing that foreigners like Ella so much. I can see why—the town is only a one hundred meter road, and it is completely dominated by hippies and backpackers. Still, the surrounding area is stunningly beautiful and it would be easy to just relax and enjoy yourself here.

When I finally reached Tissamaharama over 8 hours later, I was greeted by fantastic rice fields, dagobas, and beautiful sunsets. The main attraction is, of course Yala National Park, but the city of Tissamaharama is beautiful in its own right. I spent the afternoon just walking along the small roads and taking in the beauty.

Outside of Kandy is a whole different level of temples and sights. The main day trip that people take from Kandy is to Sigiriya and Dambulla. I tacked on Polonnaruwa, which made for a very long and exhausting day. It didn’t help that the van broke down and I ended up having to switch drivers and vehicles four times. Nonetheless, I really enjoyed this trip even though I could barely walk by the end of it.

I paid 8500Rs (about $65) for this day trip. This seemed a little high to me, though if you are with a group of people then it isn’t so bad. I tried to get in with another group, but there wasn’t any. Or that is what they told me, which I seriously doubt. If I had more time I would have done a bit more looking. Alas, I had limited time so off I went.

Sigiriya

Sigiriya means Lion’s Rock and is perched on top of a giant glacial bolder that is 660 feet high (200 meters). There used to be a lion carved into the side of the rock, but all that remains now are its feet. It is and always has been a Buddhist temple according to archeologists, but for a short period of time it was used as a palace. During this time gardens, residences and defensive structures were built.

While the palace and its views are stunning, I was very impressed with the Mirror Wall frescoes. They are in amazingly good condition and as far as I was told they have not been restored. Women did not cover their breasts until the British arrived, so you see practically perfect women painted on the sides of the chamber (they were clearly painted by men who appreciated the female form).

Polonnaruwa

I wasn’t able to do both Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura, so i chose the closer one. I was told that both cities are somewhat similar, but maybe only in the fact they are both ancient. Polonnaruwa is quite large and there is a lot to see. I really enjoyed exploring the ruins of this ancient city. I had a driver, but some people suggest getting a bike and going around on your own. I think that would be a lot of fun if you have the time and stay in the area. In retrospect, I would probably have given myself more time here instead of trying to do three major sights in a single day.

Dambulla

By the time I reached Dambulla I was on my fourth driver and vehicle, and I was really tired. There is a lot of climbing up stairs at Sigirya and a lot of walking at Polonnaruwa. It didn’t help that the driver sent to fetch had people waiting who has just finished at Dambulla. They didn’t want to wait around while I explored (and in the end, they didn’t) so I was trying to hurry. I only saw a portion of Dambulla, the temples carved into the sides of caves (reminiscent of my visit to Ajanta Caves in India). What I didn’t know is that it was another long hike up steps to reach the caves. I was tired, in a hurry, and pretty much assumed I was going to have a heart attack at any moment. The effort was worth it, though. The caves are filled with beautiful frescoes and Buddha statues.

In the end, I did make it back to Kandy. The drive home was an hour and half through traffic (which is constant throughout Sri Lanka). The people that arranged my tour really worked hard to make sure that I could do the full tour, and every driver was super nice and helpful. They all felt bad for my situation, but in the end it all worked out. I wasn’t all that bothered since I know these things happen.

I had a really good time, though knowing what I know now I would not have done it all in one day. I would have stopped at Dambulla first, then gone to Sigirya. I would have stayed the night in Polonnaruwa. I would have rented a bicycle and spent the day exploring Polonnaruwa at a more leisurely pace.

Kandy is supposed to be one of those amazing cities that will alter your life. It’s nice and definitely a wonderful place to visit; not sure about it being life altering though. Of course, you really can’t take a trip to Sri Lanka and not visit Kandy. I did the next worst thing, though, and did not go to the Temple of the Tooth—the primary attraction of Kandy. I was even staying near the temple, so no excuse other than I was constantly running around on tours to see the sights.

I took a train to Kandy using Expo Rail. It is a private car attached to a regular train (I think—I really couldn’t tell). The price was about $11 instead of $2, but trust me when I say it is worth it. Using the regular train means possibly standing the entire time and being constantly jostled. The Expo Rail car is nicer and more comfortable, though the rails are still not so great so the ride is bumpy. They also have a fascination with the air conditioning, so be prepared for it to get cold.

Tour of Kandy & Three Temples Loop

When I arrived in Kandy I did a half day tour in a tuk tuk that cost about 2500Rs (about $19). Nearly everyone quoted me the same price. The tour included the botanical gardens, herb garden, tea plantation and factory, and three temples. The traveling around is a bit long and very dusty. Make sure you have water, though your driver can stop at a store if you need.

I can honestly say that you can skip the herb garden. It is a government owned garden that is designed to help tourists understand traditional Ayurveda medicine. While mildly interesting if you have never seen these herbs, there is very little so see or do. The entry is free but a tip is expected (of course) by the person that walks you around and explains things.

If you have seen a botanical garden before, then there is very little need to visit the one in Kandy. It is really nice, though there is nothing that particular stood out for me other than the giant bats flying around the trees. Turns out that can been seen everywhere. The entry is 1100Rs (about $8.50). I suggest walking around in the morning or afternoon as the sun gets rather strong during the day.

The tea plantation was interesting mostly because I had never seen tea before. Sadly, poor old women run up to you to and drag you over to the tea plants to show you how they pick them. They do this for five seconds then ask for money. If you make the mistake of give them some like I did, a throng of women will show up asking for money. My tuk tuk driver literally had to fend off the women so I could get back into the tuk tuk. It was crazy. I found that the tea plantations around Nuawa Eliya where much nicer, and larger (and you are not accosted by women). The tea factory itself was rather interesting. The free tour is rather short, but if you have never seen how tea is made before it can be kind of cool. You can do that in Nuwara Eliya too.

Now we get to the good part: the three temples loop. I really enjoyed this and if you have a thing for temples you will too. Personally, I would skip all of the other stuff above and just do these three temples (and the Temple of Tooth, of course). Each temple has an entry fee, anywhere between 200 and 300Rs (about $1.50 to $2.25). This is paid to someone who gives you a ticket. That someone then usually tries to show you around for a tip, though not always (okay, yeah, always—they want a tip).

Embekke Devale Temple

This is a Hindu and Buddhist temple mix that is famous for its intricately carved wood pillars. The carvings include dancers, warriors, elephants, lions, peacocks, flowers, and mythical creatures. While not as interesting on the outside as the other temples, the wood carvings are really cool.

Lankathilaka Temple

I found the exterior of this temple to be reminiscent of a Tibet, Nepal, or Bhutan temple (though I have never been to any of those places…yet). Lankathilaka is a World Heritage site and quite beautiful perched on the hilltop as it is. I met an interesting older German couple that visits every year, sometimes a couple times a year. They stay there and just love the place. There are two ways to get to this temple. One, the driver can take you around and you walk in; or, two, the driver takes you to the base and you walk up a millions steps. Guess which way I had to go?

Gadaladeniya Temple

Gadaladeniya is a really beautiful temple that has prayer flags, beautiful fresco-like paintings, and fascinating wood work. It’s an ancient monastery situated on a big, flat boulder. I met the conservator there (at least that is what he said he was) and he told me a bit about the place. Didn’t ask for any money, but he did try to sell his artwork which was quite beautiful.

I just returned from my whirlwind tour of Sri Lanka. I was there for nine days, though really only seven full days. I started in Colombo, a rather nondescript city, took a train to Kandy, private car to Tissamaharama for a safari around Yala National Park, continue to Galle, then finished back in a suburb of Colombo called Negombo. While Sri Lanka is not as earth shattering as many people led me to believe, it was beautiful and I had a great time. While there were some negatives, on the whole the trip was positive.

The first thing to know is that Sri Lanka is all about the money. There are few other places I’ve visited (and I’ve visited quite a few) that focus so obviously on the financial transaction. Everyone seems to expect a tip, from the person telling you where the bathroom is to the taxi driver just dropping you down the street. Nearly every experience was tempered by someone asking for a tip. I spent most of my time worrying about whether to tip, how much to tip, and if the person would get mad that I didn’t tip appropriately (which happened a few times). I even had a random person on the side of the road tell me I could not photograph “his beach” without paying a tip. He kept swinging a stick in front of my camera to prevent me from taking the photo. When I refused to pay it got a little nasty.

Everything had a fee associated with it. I am fine paying admission and entrance fees for most things because it helps with maintaining and conserving the parks, museums, and so on.The are substantial price differences for foreigners than locals, which again is perfectly fine and the way it should be in my mind. What was surprising, though, were the fees to visit Buddhist temples. That seemed a bit out of character for Buddhism and places of worship in general. I know some religious places charge, but usually it is due to an attached museum or something like that. A typical church, mosque, synagogue, or temple doesn’t usually charge. Not so in Sri Lanka. As a tourist, you pay (even if you are Buddhist as a Chinese couple discovered to their dismay).

Prices are a bit high for rooms and food in tourist places. I learned from my driver what he pays for things and it’s a shocking difference. I expect some difference, of course, but the difference in Sri Lanka is huge. There is also a tendency to just let the foreigner pay for things. For example, I probably wouldn’t mind buying my driver a meal, but when a tuk tuk driver taking me to some temples for the afternoon follows me in the convenience store and grabs water that I have to pay for, it is a little unsettling. It was just expected without question or discussion. My driver (and his friend!!! who was along to keep him company on the long drive back) did the same thing on my drive to Tissamaharama when I stopped for lunch. It was really an odd experience to have this happen repeatedly. Other people I met said they experienced the same thing.

Service charges are added to many things, like rooms and meals. Tax is also added. Of course, the staff get none of this—management keeps it all—so you have to make sure that tips are put in the hands of the staff directly. What this means is that you are paying 10% for a service charge, 10% for taxes, and then another 10% for tips. This isn’t always done, but there is usually some random combination of these which adds to the price of everything. Its inconsistency makes it a bit annoying.

I know someone will say this is how they make money, blah blah blah. Maybe it is. As an American I’m happy to tip when it makes sense. Restaurants, good service when touring, and other things. Just being nice doesn’t cut it. Nor does over charging me for a service then wanting even more at the end. Needless to say, the fixation on money did not go over well with me. In negotiations the response was usually that the price is cheap “for you” or they would try to convince my I was getting a good deal. I can suck it up and accept the prices, but the inconsistency, and the nickle and dimming just left a sour taste in my mouth.

Now, I don’t want to give the wrong picture. Many tourists will still think things are inexpensive and some things are. They won’t think twice about the prices because they are on vacation. For me, it just seemed a bit too much. In a country where the average pay is 1000 rupees a day (about $7.50 a day, or $150-200 a month) I get why some people tack on charges or try to get a little extra. Most of the money you pay, though, goes to owners, not the people actually doing the work. In fact, the commissions and kickbacks and deals and agreements and arrangements are so complex that it boggles the mind. Everyone is involved. When someone is considering a counter offer, they are mostly trying to figure out what they will make because so many people are involved. So, in the end you just deal with it and try to make sure that the people who do the work get their fair share.

So, with that long bitch out of the way, it is worth stating that Sri Lanka is a truly wonderful place to visit. The people are really, really nice. Most are nice without wanting anything in return. It was sad I always had to brace myself for the inevitable money request, but it was nice when the person just smiled and wished me a good day. Sri Lankans seem to be genuinely nice, similar to Thais. The people are wonderful and smile easily. When away from tourist places (which I was a few times) the people are ridiculously nice. Off the tourist trail I could just interact with people as human beings and not a financial transaction. People would smile at me as I walked around, would say hello, and they were very helpful. If I went to local restaurants, there was no expectation of a tip. I gave one anyway, which was received with a big smile and hearty thanks. I can easily say that Sri Lankans are some of the nicest people I have met while traveling.

Sri Lanka itself is also a very beautiful country. Perhaps not as fantastic as India (in the sense of scale); still, the mix of cultures and religions and architecture will blow your mind, especially considering the size of the island of Lanka itself (it is rather small). You get an unbelievable mix of beaches and culture and history in one small place. The jungles are lush, the animals are amazing, and the even the rice fields and tea plantations are quite impressive. A week wasn’t even close to enough time to visit. I could have easily spent a month.

Sadly, despite the beauty Sri Lanka is very dirty and polluted. Vehicles belch out black plumes of smoke. The air was pretty bad in most places and since air conditioning isn’t very common, I was often breathing this shit into my lungs night and day. It doesn’t help that they have a fascination for burning things (why do developing nations always want to burn stuff?). I am still trying to calm down my inflamed sinuses and throat from the pollution. There is also trash everywhere. It is common for people to just throw trash on the ground or out the window of their cars. Beaches, national parks, roadsides, and pretty much everywhere has a nice layer of trash around. While not atypical for Asia, it is still disappointing.

I would say that Sri Lanka is a mix of India and SE Asia. The people are wonderful and the sights are amazing, just like India and SE Asia. And just like them, there is a lot of pollution and trash. The desire for tips and the huge disparities in costs is a bit unusual, but I got over it pretty easily and just enjoyed the country.

Getting Around

Sri Lanka is not very developed, so transportation is not as easy or convenient as it could be. They are building nicer and bigger highways, and they already have one from the airport to Colombo (it is worth paying the 300Rs to have your taxi driver use it). When you arrive at the airport, go to the official taxi desk (just ask information to point it out). They are about $10 cheaper than the others. The price is fixed. I paid 2,400Rs, or about $19, from the airport to the heart of Colombo (plus another 300Rs for the toll).

Traveling around the country using a private car is common. I found it to be rather expensive, though it is faster and more comfortable than using local transport. Getting around on local transport is not all that convenient or direct (it takes several trains and buses to go from Kandy to Tissamaharama, for example). If you have the time though, it is much more interesting and significantly cheaper to use local transport. Maybe just not more comfortable.

My driver from Kandy to Tissamaharama, where Yala National Park is, cost 15,500Rs, which is about $120. I only got a discounted price because the van on my tour to Sigiriya broke down and I ended up going with four different drivers to get back to my hotel. Otherwise, it would have been more. Of course, if you are with a group, then hiring a car and driver makes more sense. By yourself it is really costly. Oh, and don’t believe Google Maps—it takes much longer than you imagine to get somewhere in Sri Lanka. Traffic is terrible, roads are not very good, and the driving is a cluster fuck of breaking and swerving to avoid accidents.

Trains are cheap, but they are shitty. The Expo Rail train from Colombo to Kandy and the surrounding area is worth the extra price (instead of $2 for a ticket, you pay $12). The ride is still a little uncomfortable because the rails are not so great, but trust me when I say it beats the regular trains hands down. The regular trains are oversold and packed with people who push and shove and squeeze in next to you (this is an odd behavior I never fully understood or figured out). On my train ride from Galle to Colombo, I was forced to stand the entire way packed with people (very common). There is really no reason to pay for second class instead of third class. They never checked the tickets and the cars are so packed it would be impossible for them to determine who is supposed to be in which class—it is just a free for all cluster. Nonetheless, the trains are fun in their own way and a lot cheaper. Expect them to be slow.

What I Saw

I will be writing more detail about these locations in future posts, but here are the basics of my itinerary. I arrived in Colombo late at night the first day. The next day I spent exploring the city, There is a not a lot to see, though there are some interesting Buddhist temples and the Galle Green park is nice. I think I would probably spend my time elsewhere if possible. There is really no reason to spend time in Colombo. Nonetheless, I spent a day there. Tuk tuks around town have meters, though they will take a longer route. If you negotiate a little, you can pay 300Rs for most trips around town and they will be faster than a metered tuk tuk that charges 250Rs but takes the long way.

The next morning I took a train to Kandy. I used the Expo Rail, a private train car. It is nicer and a bit faster than the other trains, though it costs more. It is still a rough ride because the rails are not so great. Nonetheless, it is worth it. There are no metered tuk tuks in Kandy so you have to haggle. Kandy is nice city. Unfortunately, I did not see the prime attraction—the Temple of the Tooth—and I was right next to it. It costs about 1200Rs I believe and while it sounded nice, it also sounded touristy. I regret missing it, but it allowed me to see the other sights around Kandy.

The tour around Kandy is 2,500Rs to visit three temples, some gardens, and a tea plantation. I really enjoyed the three temples around Kandy, even though visitors are not very common (I don’t know why). The Herbal Garden can be skipped, trust me. The tea plantation is interesting, but once you have seen one you have seen them all. The one around Kandy has women mercilessly begging for money by showing you how they pick the tea. If you give them some, as I did, then several more will show up and they start to get very aggressive (my taxi driver had to help fend them off of me—seriously). The Botanical Gardens are nice, though nothing special. It costs 1,100Rs. Personally, the most enjoyable part of the afternoon tour was seeing the three different temples. Each costs about 300Rs and of course there are “guides” that will point at the temple and then ask for money (the “guide” is often the man taking the entrance fee, but you do get an official receipt).

I did a day trip from Kandy to Sigiriya (the big rock), Dambulla (rock temple), and Polonnaruwa (ancient city ruins). This was a very long day, not only because it starts at 5am and ends around 8 or 9pm, but because the van I had broke down. Even without that, I would suggest doing this in two days unless you have only one. It is doable in one, but you are seriously worn out at the end of the day. There is a lot of walking and steps involved. I thought I was going to die when I finally got back to my hotel. Nonetheless, the sights are worth visiting.

I left Kandy for Tissamaharama to do a safari at Yala National Park. I had a car and driver, so I was able to make stops along the way. Many people visit Nuwara Eliya and Ella, especially for Adam’s Peak. I didn’t do Adam’s Peak (it just sounded horrifyingly difficult to climb), but the drive through the area is quite beautiful. There are several tea plantations and cute little cities. Ella is a hippie paradise, though the town is literally just 100 meters long. The scenery is really beautiful and I took a lot of photos along the way.

Tissamaharama is a nice town surrounded by rice paddies (the main photo of this post is from Tissamaharama, walking around near my guesthouse). I’ve seen many rice paddies before but these were quite stunning. Of course, the main reason to visit Tissamaharama is to go to Yala National Park. Yala is famous for leopards, elephants, peacocks, and a variety of other animals and birds. I saw everything except leopards. That was a bit disappointing, but I still really had an awesome time. I did the morning tour—leave at 5am and back at your hotel at 12:30pm—which is more than enough time. You spend about 5 hours in the park on dirt roads bouncing around looking for animals. By noon you are ready to be done. Trust me, you will not miss out since you see lots of animals.

I went to Galle Fort after the safari (thankfully I was able to shower before leaving). The drive there has nice beaches to see along the way. Galle Fort is okay, but if I were to do this again I would I would stay in Unawatuna. Galle Fort is more for the mature set that is interested in galleries and nice restaurants. I walked the fort walls at sunset, which was really beautiful and full of locals, but the town is kind of boring. The hotels and restaurants are expensive and clearly catering to a different traveler than me. Though, I have to say that I had awesome kottu at a small place called Cafe Hula Hula near the ocean part of the fort walls. The Serendipity Cafe has amazing coffee, toast, and hoppers for breakfast.

I did go to Unawatuna for the day. It is only 15 minutes away by bus at a cost of 20Rs (15¢). Tuk tuks will try to charge 300Rs, but just walk out the main gate to the bus station. Bus employees will ask you were you want to go and steer you to the correct bus. The ticket man on the bus will tell you were to get off. Almost anyone along the road will also help you flag down a return bus to Galle Fort. Unawatuna is definitely touristy, but I still enjoyed it. Despite the heavy tourism it was still laid back and, surprisingly, was the only place in Sri Lanka where no one bothered me or asked for money. There is a nice temple at one end of the beach and several restaurants to have a beer at along the beach. The water is clear and turquoise, and the beach has nearly white sand (though in some places there is a bit of trash).

I finally returned to Negombo, a suburb of Colombo close to the airport. Make sure you choose your guesthouse wisely as there are some by the beach and others not by the beach. I was not so lucky in terms of being by the beach, but I was lucky in the that my guesthouse owner was super nice and helpful. A word or caution, most guesthouses in Sri Lanka say they are near certain landmarks and have all kinds of amenities (ensuite bathrooms, air conditioning, hot waters, hot tubs, and so on), but they often aren’t close and don’t have the amenities listed. They just check all the boxes when posting to a website, so double-check before paying. The average price for a room I paid was about 2,500-3,000Rs (about $20-25), though in some places it was higher.

In the end, I really enjoyed Sri Lanka and now that I have a better feel for it, when I go back I will be able to navigate it a bit better. Expect to see some more posts about the specific things I did while there.

My original plans to visit Bali, Indonesia this month changed. The friend I was going to go with ended up staying in Thailand. His parents are coming to visit. Can’t argue with that. I need to leave Thailand, however, because of my visa, so I decided to go to Sri Lanka. I have heard of Sri Lanka being a nice place to visit, and a friend of mine spent time there and really like it, but it was never on the top of my list.

After doing some research, I can’t believe I have been missing out on this gem. I will only be there for nine days, but it looks like it will be far to short to take in everything the country has to offer. First of all, the round trip flights were fairly inexpensive from Bangkok at $250. The flights are rough three hours and half hours, so not too bad. I was able to apply for a visa online, but the system is a little clumsy. I eventually discovered I was granted a visa, though I received no notifications about it. Visas are $30.

What has me so excited about Sri Lanka is the combination of a rich history, culture, nature, beaches, and wildlife. There is quite a bit I wanted to do on this trip, but with only nine days I had to limit myself. I decided to leave out the beaches, if only because there are plenty in Thailand that I have and can visit, but other things in Sri Lanka that are not available here. Sri Lanka has a rich culture and interesting history. While not exactly a major competitor in the temple department, Sri Lanka still has much to offer with one of the most holy Buddhist relics, a tooth from the Buddha himself. Nature and wildlife are in abundance here, especially for such a small island, so that will be a big focus for me.

Sri Lanka apparently has some nice scuba diving—something I had planned to start doing more of again—but the real jewel is the wildlife in the national parks. Elephants, leopards, birds, and a huge variety of animals inhabit their parks. Going on a safari in Africa is far more expensive (and something I still plan on doing), but for now a safari in Sri Lanka is the next best thing. It might seem surprising, but Sri Lanka is probably second only to Africa in terms of a large wildlife viewing.

My trip will take me from Colombo, the capital, where I will spend a day exploring the markets and the old town, to Kandy, the cultural capital of Sri Lanka. From there I will visit Sigiriya and Polonnaruwa, and might even manage Dambulla. Then I will go to Nuwara Eliya and the Hill Country. From there I will head to Yala National Park for my safari before leaving the country.